Camping Tour of Scotland 2023 - Part Three

Part Three - The Cairngorms

As we left the lowlands behind and headed up the A9, we started to see and feel the true wilderness that Scotland has to offer. So many beautiful valleys, mountainsides, and forests that appear to be completely devoid of human activity - this is what I had come here for!

We arrived at Glenmore Campsite, near Aviemore, early in the evening, and I was initially struck by this site - it was definitely the biggest site we'd been on during this trip, and also the most wild feeling, as it's set right in the woodland. After a brief visit to reception to check in, we found ourselves a pitching spot away from other campers, and right on the edge of the woods, which gave our pitch a relatively private feel, however, it did make us easy access for all the flying insects of the forest!

Our first evening was spent grilling some steaks that we had bought earlier in the day, and then, in an attempt to find some Wi-Fi to download maps and plan the next few days, we went to the small ski bar on site - The Pine Marten. I rarely visit sites with bars attached, as normally they tend to be much bigger and more commercialised than the sites that I like to go for, but this bar was a very welcome addition to our stay, that we enjoyed more than once - I would definitely recommend to anyone staying on Glenmore Campsite or even if you're just near Aviemore. Once equipped with Wi-Fi, and a few delicious Cairngorm Brewery ales, we set about planning the next few days, and enjoying our first evening in the Cairngorms.

First on the list for our stay in Glenmore was the circular walk around Loch Morlich, which was very conveniently accessible on foot from the bottom of our campsite. The route is around 3.5 miles long, and consists of Loch side and woodland trails - it is a relatively easy route with well defined trails and few inclines, but it will reward the walker with some absolutely astounding views. Boots recommended, just for the muddier terrain.

We stopped for a flask of coffee and some snacks halfway round, and the view of the mountains behind the loch is definitely worth getting a few pictures of. As we came back to the beach we had started on, we stopped for the more daunting activity that we had planned - going for a dip! The fact that there was no one else swimming in Morlich should have tipped us off, but regardless we went in and experienced some VERY cold water! I have done multiple New Years Days swims in Cornwall and this water temperature seemed very close to the sea in January! There were plenty of people enjoying the water on paddleboards, canoes, and kayaks and I think that this definitely would have been the sensible option - lesson learned! We didn't stay in for too long, and when we came out we made a beeline for the Café for a much needed hot chocolate!

When planning this part of the trip I remember looking over the touring map, around the Aviemore area, and seeing the Cairngorm Reindeer Herd noted just by Glenmore - it definitely warranted further investigation. After checking out the website, and looking into the guided hill trip to see the deer, we both agreed that this was a must to include on our Scottish adventure, and on our second day in the Cairngorms, we were reindeer bound! We booked our guided hill trip online before our tour, and the centre where we could pickup our tickets from was quite literally a stones throw from the campsite, so after one last visit to the Pine Marten bar for breakfast, we headed to the centre to collect our tickets. If you're thinking of booking to go and see the reindeer, its worth noting that the parking for the centre is a lay-by on the adjacent road, which fills up quickly, so best be there a little early. After getting our tickets, we followed the instructions and drove 10 minutes down the road to the Sugar Bowl Car park, which again, fills up quickly, so it's also worth arriving here early too. From the car park, we were taken on a brief walk through the forest, over Utsi's Bridge, and then up some steps to the moorland plateau where we would see the reindeer.

After a briefing from the very knowledgeable guides, we went into the fields where the reindeer currently were; the guides told us that for the majority of the year the herd roams freely over 10,000 acres in the Cairngorms, and then for the rest of the year they are brought into a smaller (but still quite large!) area, so that the herders can check in on them. The herd kept here are the only reindeer in the UK that are actually kept in their natural environment, as the Cairngorms are classed as a 'Subarctic' habitat, and with its pine forests and mountain peaks, its not hard to see why (four of the five highest mountains in the UK are in the Cairngorms!). 

Once in the fields, after hearing the rustle of food bags carried by the guides, the deer surged into view, and we watched them run out on the Scottish hillside with a real sense of wonder, this was an incredible experience in itself. Touching, patting, or stroking the reindeer is prohibited, but if you're after a more intimate experience, the guides will give you some feed and the deer will happily eat it right out of your hands, at a pace that would convince you that they have never been fed before! Once up there, you're allowed to stay for as long as you would like, walking around with the deer, taking pictures, and watching them run and graze themselves on the hillside. This experience only cost just over £20, and we would have been willing to pay more, as this was definitely one of the major highlights of our journey. Spending time with such beautiful creatures in their natural habitat was totally breath taking and I cannot recommend it enough. The deer are very friendly, as are the guides, who are more than happy to recant their wealth of knowledge, and answer any questions that you might have.

After coming back down from the hill trip, we headed into Glenmore to see the four deer that are kept in the paddock at the centre for anyone who might not be able to make the walk up to see the herd. The paddocks had a section full of information about the herd and reindeer in general, as well as some exhibitions focused on the Sami people who traditionally herd them. The gift shop followed this, which as you can probably imagine, was filled with lots of themed gifts, books, merch, and even skins and antlers! Seeing the reindeer was a wonderful high point on which to end our time in the Cairngorms, and after leaving the gift shop we headed South-West to our next stop, Glencoe!